People
Around the Lakes
The shores and islands of Abaya and Chamo are populated by farming peoples
such as the Ganjule and the Guji, both of whom also have ancient
traditions of hippo hunting. The Guji ply the waters of lake Abaya in
high-prowled ambatch boats similar to those depicted on the tombs of the
ancient Egyptian Pharaohs.
South-west of the lakes in the direction of Jinka, the traveller comes
to the homeland of the Konso who practice an intensive form of agriculture
on intricately-terraced hillsides. The Konso have a rich indigenous
culture that finds expression in haunting music and dance, and in the
weaving of beautiful thick cotton blankets.
Another distinctive people of the region around Lakes Chamo and Abaya
are the Dorze, once warriors, who have now turned to farming and weaving.
They produce the colourful toga-like robes known as shammas which are worn
throughout Ethiopia. Though there's a large Dorze population around Arba
Minch itself, their traditional homeland is further to the north around
Chencha, high up in the Huge mountain range overlooking the lakes and the
Bridge of Heaven.
The brief, 26-kilometre drive from Arba Minch up to Chencha involves a
remarkable transition – climbing from the lush, tropical forests of the
lowland, through bamboo at around 2,500 metres, into stands of juniper
laced with Spanish moss where cold fingers of cloud grasp the ancient
limbs of the trees and the air is chill and bracing.
Dorze villages are classic example of simple architecture, unlike
anything seen elsewhere in Ethiopia -towering beehive-shaped structures
reaching up to 12 metres high, the interiors dark but spacious and airy
with floors of pressed earth. The vaulted ceiling walls are covered with
an elegant thatch of ensete (false banana) to form a smooth and unbroken
convex dome. Each home stands in its own grounds surrounded by smaller but
similar houses: guest house; cow-shed, kitchen and perhaps even a workshop
for weaving or other work.
Northwards from Chencha, leaving Lake Abaya behind -and with it the
wilderness -the traveller eventually comes to the bustling market town of
Sodo, which stands on the border between the regions of Gamo Gofa, Sidamo
and Kaffa. This is one of Ethiopia's premier coffee-growing areas and,
quite possibly, the original home of the coffee plant –where, the first
trees grew wild before being cultivated and then, in the 14th century,
taken to Yemen and from there across the world.
Lake
Langano
At the Horacallo bridge it is possible to turn left along a track which
leads to the lake. There are good camping spots here along the northern
shore however, the main track to the lake is at about 210 and 215 kms
leading left to the Wabe Shebele and Bekele Mola Hotels, beach and camping
ground respectively: A new resort
style spa has been established on the borders of Lake langano lat yourself
be pampered by their skilled staff after your tour through our wonderful
country.
The soft brown waters of Langano are set against the blue backdrop of
the Arsi Mountains soaring4,000 meters high. A few birds make Langano their
home but this resort is less for the nature lover than sportsman and
sun worshipper. Here you can water ski and sail, swim or bask in the blazing
sun on the sloping sandy beach. European food is served in the hotel
restaurant but the tilapia is good and cooking freshly caught fish over
the camp fire has its own special attraction. The local Oromo women are
often prepared to sell jewellery or utensils; copper bracelets or brass;
bead necklaces and cowry shell decorated milk pots.
Lake
Abyata
Before reaching the turnoff to Langano lake, the road passes over the
Bulbula river. Just before the bridge and the village, there is a track to
the right (at the top of the slope) which leads to the lake edge. At
certain times of the year the greatest congregation of birds is to be
found here. However, before the next bridge, over the Horacallo river
(connecting Lakes Langano and Abyata) a turning to the right leads to the
more usual area of exceptional bird viewing.
Thousands of flamingos create pink carpets in the blue bays of the
lake; great white pelicans soar in from Lake Shala to enjoy the fishing
and execute their fantastic ballet; pied kingfishers hover and dive; fish
eagles protect their territory with their eerie cry; cormorants and
darters fill the dead acacia trees silhouetting strange and beautiful
shapes against the sunset. Here are tall marabous, sacred ibis, dwell
sometimes in the hundreds of thousands, snipe, stilt, avocet, and the
black heron searching the shallow water in the shadow created by his black
umbrella.
Chamo
and Abaya Lakes
Far south in Ethiopia's Great Rift Valley lie two marvellous lakes ringed
by savanna plains and smoke; mountain crests. By far the largest of
Ethiopia's Rift Valley lakes, the 551-square-kilometre waters of Chamo and
the 1,160-square-kilometre surface of Abaya are considered by many to be
also the most beautiful. Indeed, few places on earth can match the allure
of their setting.
Much of this forms part of one of Ethiopia's finest national parks,
Nech Sar, established as a sanctuary for the rare Swayne's hartebeest.
From the town of Arba Minch on the ridge of land that divides Abaya and
Chamo there are commanding views of the panorama all around including both
lakes with Nech Sar on the eastern side and, to the west, the Guge range
of mountains. Such is the outstanding beauty of this viewpoint it has long
been known as the Bridge of Heaven. Equally poetic, Arba Minch -meaning
Forty Springs in Amharic -takes its name from the bubbling streams which
spring up amid the undergrowth .of the luxuriant forest which clothes the
steep slopes beneath the town.
This region, more than 500 kilometres south of Addis Ababa, is one of
Ethiopia's last great surviving wildernesses. But an international hotel
at Arba Minch with high-quality service and facilities ensures the visitor
enjoys the splendours of nature in comfort.
This is an ideal base from which to explore the forested land between
the lakes, and the plains of Nech Sar beyond where the surviving herds of
Swayne's hartebeest, once in abundance, and zebra and Grant's gazelle roam
the high savanna.
There's an air of untamed grandeur about all this that lingers over the
lakes and mountains. Alive with many species of fish -the fighting
tigerfish, giant Nile perch, barbel, catfish and tilapia offering fine
sport -
Chamo and Abaya are an angler's paradise. In the reed-fringed bays of
Chamo's sparkling aquamarine waters hundreds of hippos emerge at night to
graze on the grassy shores. Chamo is also sanctuary for several thousand
Nile crocodile, some reaching lengths of up to seven metres from snout to
tip of tail.
People
Around the Lakes
The shores and islands of Abaya and Chamo are populated by farming peoples
such as the Ganjule and the Guji, both of whom also have ancient
traditions of hippo hunting. The Guji ply the waters of lake Abaya in
high-prowed ambatch boats similar to those depicted on the tombs of the
ancient Egyptian Pharaohs.
South-west of the lakes in the direction of Jinka, the traveller comes
to the homeland of the Konso who practice an intensive form of agriculture
on intricately-terraced hillsides. The Konso have a rich indigenous
culture that finds expression in haunting music and dance, and in the
weaving of beautiful thick cotton blankets.
Another distinctive people of the region around Lakes Chamo and Abaya
are the Dorze, once warriors, who have now turned to farming and weaving.
They produce the colourful toga-like robes known as shammas which are worn
throughout Ethiopia. Though there's a large Dorze population around Arba
Minch itself, their traditional homeland is further to the north around
Chencha, high up in the Guge mountain range overlooking the lakes and the
Bridge of Heaven.
The brief, 26-kilometre drive from Arba Minch up to Chencha involves a
remarkable transition – climbing from the lush, tropical forests of the
lowland, through bamboo at around 2,500 metres, into stands of juniper
laced with Spanish moss where cold fingers of cloud grasp the ancient
limbs of the trees and the air is chill and bracing.
Dorze villages are classic example of simple architecture, unlike
anything seen elsewhere in Ethiopia -towering beehive-shaped structures
reaching up to 12 metres high, the interiors dark but spacious and airy
with floors of pressed earth. The vaulted ceiling walls are covered with
an elegant thatch of ensete (false banana) to form a smooth and unbroken
convex dome. Each home stands in its own grounds surrounded by smaller but
similar houses: guest house; cow-shed, kitchen and perhaps even a workshop
for weaving or other work.
Northwards from Chencha, leaving Lake Abaya behind -and with it the
wilderness -the traveller eventually comes to the bustling market town of
Sodo, which stands on the border between the regions of Gamo Gofa, Sidamo
and Kaffa. This is one of Ethiopia's premier coffee-growing areas and,
quite possibly, the original home of the coffee plant –where, the first
trees grew wild before being cultivated and then, in the 14th century,
taken to Yemen and from there across the world.
Lake
Abyata
Before reaching the turnoff to Langano lake, the road passes over the
Bulbula river. Just before the bridge and the village, there is a track to
the right (at the top of the slope) which leads to the lake edge. At
certain times of the year the greatest congregation of birds is to be
found here. However, before the next bridge, over the Horacallo river
(connecting Lakes Langano and Abyata) a turning to the right leads to the
more usual area of exceptional bird viewing.
Thousands of flamingos create pink carpets in the blue bays of the
lake; great white pelicans soar in from Lake Shala to enjoy the fishing
and execute their fantastic ballet; pied kingfishers hover and dive; fish
eagles protect their territory with their eerie cry; cormorants and
darters fill the dead acacia trees silhouetting strange and beautiful
shapes against the sunset. Here are tall marabous, sacred ibis, dwell
sometimes in the hundreds of thousands, snipe, stilt, avocet, and the
black heron searching the shallow water in the shadow created by his black
umbrella.
